Despite having lived only 20 miles away from Hever Castle for the best part of 30 years, I’d never visited. Ain’t that often the way?
All that was set to change last week. I booked tickets so I could show off some of our British history to friends who were over from the USA, Hever Castle being older than their entire country! Sadly, our friends got called back stateside due to a family emergency the day before our booked visit so, as tickets are non-changeable and non-refundable, we took a couple of good friends along in their stead.
The weather on the day of our visit was Goldilocks – not too hot, not too cold – just right. Despite being into September, we were pleased to find many floral displays still in bloom, particularly the roses and dahlias.
We arrived shortly after 11am and were directed into a parking space with a very short distance to walk to the entrance huts. There are two parts to a visit to Hever Castle, you can choose the gardens only or the castle and gardens. We’d opted for both so we took our time ambling through the truly beautiful and relaxing surroundings before reaching the castle.
There’s plenty of them as they span 125 acres. I don’t think we covered all of them and we didn’t make a plan but just wandered where our fancy took us. The best part was heading up a deserted walkway bordered by towering rhododendrons – sadly past their flowering season – toward some magnificent steps that led to waterfalls and grottoes and onto a higher walkway where we discovered a variety of the most beautiful, and clearly ancient, trees. This part was more natural than the formal Italian garden with its classical statues or the rose gardens containing over 5,000 rose bushes.
I particularly enjoyed the Loggia that overlooks the 38 acre boating lake, home to all manner of waterbirds. It’s possible to hire a pedalo or a rowing boat to head away from land for the ultimate in tranquillity and stunning garden views when looking back toward land.
We took our chances in the 100-year-old Yew Maze, one of very few that exist in the country. Such fun but sadly no champagne to greet us when we reached the centre. There’s also a water maze in the grounds which we didn’t attempt as we had no towels with us. Although you cross the water over flagstones, some are booby-trapped and squirt water at the unwary visitor. You have been warned!
We traversed the drawbridge over the delightful moat into 600 years of history. Looking down as we crossed, we were enthralled by the size of the koi carp lazily gulping at the surface of the water. The romantic scene was further enhanced by the dozen or so white doves nestled among the thick ivy growing on the castle walls. There are also swans.
Hever was the childhood home of Anne Boleyn, who was unfortunate enough to succumb to the relentless romantic attentions of Henry VIII and become his second wife and mother of Elizabeth I before – quite literally – losing her head.
Within the castle walls are panelled rooms housing fine furniture, tapestries, antiques and what is regarded by some as ‘one of the best collections of Tudor portraits after the National Portrait Gallery.’ Also on display are two prayer books which belonged to Anne and bear her inscriptions and signature.
The preservation and glory of the castle and grounds, including creation of many of the gardens’ features, are thanks to William Waldorf Astor, who became the second richest man on the planet in 1890. He purchased Hever Castle and grounds in 1903 and spent one tenth of his fortune and five years turning it into the magnificent site we can visit today.
Astor was a New Yorker who moved to England and became a British citizen. His son, Waldorf, married Nancy Witcher Langhorne, better known to us as Nancy Astor, Britain’s first seated female MP and famous nemesis of Churchill.
Our US friend who was originally meant to accompany us on this visit is also called William, is also from New York and is also quite the Anglophile. He would have been charmed by Astor’s justification for departing his country of birth: “America is not a fit place for a gentleman to live.” We learnt this by means of the excellent, free audio guide that accompanied us, room-by-room, through the castle.
Dogs kept on leads are welcome in the grounds, but not permitted inside the castle. Probably quite wise – you wouldn’t want to get a bill because the family pet chewed on the leg of a 500-year-old chair! We saw many dogs during our visit as the grounds offer a lovely environment for them.
In addition to the castle and grounds, there’s a display of miniature model houses, accessed through the Hever Shop. These feature 12th scale models of English country houses from Tudor through to Victorian times.
For those of a military bent, the Kent and Sharpshooters Yeomanry Trust offers a military museum in the castle grounds. Here, you can experience a reconstruction of a WWI trench (complete with sound effects!), a WWII Cromwell tank turret and view various military exhibits dating as far back as 1797.
To keep the youngsters happy, there are several play areas. There are cafés and mini garden centres where one can buy plants and home and garden items and souvenirs of a wonderful day out.
Ticket prices range between around £18 and £26 (less for children and under-4s go free), with concessions and family tickets and dependent on whether you choose grounds only or include the castle. This might sound expensive, but your visit can last the full day and the fee includes car parking and some events that might be running during your visit. You could even book a round of golf on the 27-hole course in the estate grounds or enjoy a spa treatment in the wellbeing centre at the golf club.
So you see, there really is something for all the family at Hever Castle. If you’re coming to Kent or Sussex, I urge you to include a visit in your itinerary. If you live nearby, don’t leave it 30 years to drop into your local.
For any US visitors, it’s a MUST.
Visit the castle website and book tickets here.
All photos copyright Ann Ritchie Photography
