Boeuf Bourguignon, Coq Au Vin, crunchy French bread with award winning Époisses cheese and a glass of Pouilly-Fuissé and to finish… maybe a slice of Tarte Au Citron. These flavours and favourites can be savoured on a slow, scenic cruise along the majestic rivers in France. Slow, enriching and meditative. It’s life in the slow lane.
I travelled on a VIVA cruise billed as the “Charming South of France”. It dawdled from Lyons to Arles along two of France’s most picturesque rivers. We were sailing on the VIVA Voyage along the Rhone and Saône (a tributary of the Rhône) rivers, taking in all that the region offered. Boarding in Lyon, we set sail for Chalon-sur-Saône, witnessing impressive and vineyard-infused riverscapes in Tournus and Mâcon. Then, returning to Lyon, the cruise continued south on the Rhône, visiting Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Viviers, Avignon and to Arles.
A cinematic voyage from the deck
It was August so the sun accompanied us on deck in a warm embrace. The river’s surface appeared like glass mirroring moving scenery in every shade of green. Birds skimmed the surface radiating water patterns, children played at the water’s edge next to rug-spread picnics. We glided past orchards, the fading carpets of the Provençal lavender and smiled at sunflower fields. Around hidden bends, stone villages came into view. Church steeples pointed to the sky, houses scattered around, leisure boats hugged the edge, bridges arched over us while residents waved, shouting greetings in perfect French accents. Orange parasols shaded bustling restaurants with the sounds of crockery and cutlery colliding next to baskets cradling crunchy French bread. In the distance the stoic castles stood proud. All this while maybe playing a game of golf on the sun deck, a dip in the whirlpool or just simply relaxing.
The ship – VIVA Voyage
VIVA VOYAGE is one of VIVA Cruises’ premium ships, featuring 76 spacious cabins and suites across 3 decks. It was built in 2005 and has retained its classical style of polished wood, comfortable seating and a marble atrium which acts as the welcome lobby to accommodate 150 guests – a comfortable number to get to know fellow guests, other than a bonjour! The Panorama Lounge served as the social hub, with a bar for favourite cocktails, cake in the afternoon, a resident pianist entertaining with jazz and classic favourites and talks by the Cruise Director providing valuable advice for the next day’s destination visit. An elevator connects the lobby with the restaurant, the Ruby and the Diamond Deck.
My cabin was comfortable and spacious (15 m²in size), with two services daily. There were twin/double or junior suites (19 m² in size) which all included a flat screen TV, daily stocked mini-bar and RITUALS® toiletries, hairdryer, safe, air conditioning, shower and toilet. The cabins on the Diamond and Ruby Decks all had French balconies
Dining and Sipping
The ship had two restaurants: the main one, RIVERSIDE served an ever-changing menu of dishes had a distinct French flavour from Tartare of Boeuf, Gratin de Chou-Fleur (cauliflower florets with Cheesy Béchamel Sauce) or Bisque D’Homard (Lobster Bisque with Cognac Foam) to main courses such as Blanquette de Veau a l’ancienne (veal cubes in mushroom sauce) and Truite De Riviere Meuniere (River Trout), and sweet tempting finales like Tarte Au Citron Meringuee Traditionnelle for dinner. For lunch, you could choose a light bite in the lounge or a healthy buffet in the restaurant with cooked items to order. Breakfast included freshly-made smoothies and à la carte dishes. The menus were presented in German and English and listed a good choice of vegan and vegetarian dishes.
Tucked away at the stern, was the small French bistro, Vino Vino, a more intimate and casual affair with a smaller menu and which required a reservation. Here you could munch into a hearty signature burger, a Croque Madame, salad niçoise or vegan curry while watching the sunset from your table.
Tea and coffee were always on tap with facilities in your cabin or in the atrium.
What to expect to see onshore
We boarded in Lyon, France’s third biggest city, an authentic place, and one unscathed by war. It’s where the Saône meets the Rhone and divides the city into two. Its uniqueness lies in the secret passages, known as traboules which unravel behind discreet, heavy wooden doors (270 in total) which following narrow, cobbled tunnels in the silk workers’ district which are believed to have been built in the fourth century as a quick route between the river and the maze of streets, They were used during World War ll for meetings of the French Resistance when the city was under German occupation. In 1964 Vieux-Lyon, (Old Lyon) was declared a historical monument, keeping its historical significance since the 14th century.
The river cruise introduced us to Burgundy, south-east of Paris. We sailed first to Chalon-sur -Saône where a coach tour transported us to Beaune, 45 minutes away, while following part of the Grand Cru wine route. Beaune is a walled city with ancient ramparts. Here, a key place to visit is Hôtel–Dieu de Beaune, a former charitable alms-house founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin. And it was here where we tasted the local, stinky cheese, Époisses, which we learned is the highest rated cheese in the world! Wine is king in this region. Regimented grooves of vines define the slopes and meadows, where no irrigation is allowed, relying instead on their deep roots. Plots are named after medieval times and the vines grown include Chardonnay, (50%), Pinot Noir (40%) and Gamay (10%).
Other excursions included Cluny Abbey which was home to the largest church in Christendom, the mother house of over 1000 monasteries. The French Revolution disbanded monastic orders and many of the sites’ buildings were sold. A trip to Mâcon, the Burgundian wine bastion is perfect for wine tasting full-bodied Chardonnays like Pouilly-Fuissé, or dry wines such as Saint-Véran. Don’t leave without tasting the classic boeuf bourguignon. The wooden house (Maison de Bois) in the centre of the city is the oldest building. Its façade in wood is decorated with a multitude of saucy statuettes and masks of men and monkeys making faces. On the east side of the Saône, the Bresse region is famous for its poultry – coq au vin maybe?
An excursion to visit Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a must not only due to its world-famous wine but its unique position on a hill which appears like an island rising out of the grapevines. At its summit are remnants of the chateau built by the Popes in the 14th century as a place to stay to escape the summer heat. The Palace of the Popes in Avignon is the largest surviving Gothic palace in Europe while Arles is famed for the inspiring the paintings of Van Gogh. Book one of the many excursions organised by VIVA Cruises to explore French culture, history and scenery or hop on one of their bicycles on board to explore the area independently.
River cruising is a breeze, literally. It’s life in the slow lane, transported to the door of villages and towns along the river banks. Quality wines from the region, paired with tempting dishes with a French flavour served to your table while the scenery passes by and French life waves from the shore.
What’s included in a VIVA Cruise:
On board passengers have access to high-quality drinks throughout the day. In addition to soft drinks, mineral water and juices, alcoholic drinks such as sparkling wine, cocktails and high-quality beers are available at all times. The all-inclusive offer includes extensive full board with flexible meal times with a breakfast buffet, multi-course lunch and dinner, as well as a high-tea and Wi-Fi. Excursions are not included.
How to get there
Direct flights from London to Lyon (London Heathrow with BA and London Gatwick with EasyJet)
Further information on VIVA Cruises
Further information on the itinerary
Further information on the excursions
Prices starting from £1,595 per person
Green Initiatives:
VIVA Cruises has a number of initiatives in place:
Responsible route planning that saves nautical miles
Use of biodegradable GTL fuel that reduces emissions and promotes CO2 neutrality
Switching off engines in many ports to use alternative shore power
Furnishings with furniture made from 100% reclaimed wood
Avoiding the use of plastic, e.g. through water dispensers and reusable bottles
About VIVA Cruises
VIVA Cruises has 9 ships which sail to Europe’s popular destinations offering flexibility and choice and designed to enrich, inspire and renew. They follow all the greatest rivers (Danube, Elbe, Moselle, Rhine, Rhône, Seine and the Main-Danube Canal), delivering guests into the heart of timeless towns and villages as well as the world’s most thriving capitals
Jane Wilson
Founder & Editor The Wellness Traveller
07778875647
