While many tourists will have Cambridge in their sights for a visit, ideally located less than an hour’s train journey from London, I’m going to suggest you travel an extra 20 minutes to the less visited city of Ely.
Nestled in the heart of Cambridgeshire and rising out of the Fens like a fairytale city on a hill, Ely is one of England’s best-kept secrets. Small in size but mighty in character, this historic cathedral city is a dream destination for travellers seeking a blend of heritage, beauty, and tranquillity. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a lover of architecture, or simply looking for a peaceful riverside escape, Ely has something magical to offer.
A City Born of Spirit and Story
The name Ely is believed to originate from the abundance of eels once found in the surrounding fens, which were a vital source of food and trade. But its history goes far deeper than its watery roots. Ely grew around a Christian community established in the 7th century by St Etheldreda, a Saxon princess who founded a monastery on the site where the city’s iconic cathedral now stands.
Throughout the centuries, Ely developed as a spiritual and political stronghold. Its elevated position in the flat Fenland made it a natural island in a sea of marsh, and during the Norman conquest, it famously became a centre of resistance led by the folk hero Hereward the Wake. The sense of independence and resilience remains part of Ely’s spirit to this day.
Oliver Cromwell’s House – The Tourist Information Centre
The actual home of Oliver Cromwell now houses Ely’s well stocked tourist information centre as well as being an attraction in its own right. I’d suggest you make this your first call on a visit.
You can collect information leaflets and ask the helpful staff for advice to ensure you make the most of your visit. From here, it’s not much of a walk to the Cathedral, which is a must see attraction.
Ely Cathedral: The Ship of the Fens
No visit to Ely would be complete without stepping inside its awe-inspiring cathedral. Known affectionately as the Ship of the Fens for its towering presence across the surrounding flatlands, Ely Cathedral is one of the most magnificent examples of medieval architecture in Britain.
Originally built in 1083, the cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic styles, its crowning glory being the breathtaking Octagon Tower. This unique architectural wonder, constructed after the original Norman tower collapsed, creates a light-filled space that is as jaw-dropping today as it must have been in the 14th century. Guided tours, including climbs to the Octagon and the West Tower, offer unforgettable views and insights into the craftsmanship behind this feat of engineering.
Inside, visitors are treated to stunning stained-glass windows, intricate carvings, and the Lady Chapel – one of the largest in England. The cathedral is not just a historical monument but a vibrant part of community life, hosting concerts, exhibitions, and seasonal events throughout the year.
The River Great Ouse: Serenity and Discovery
Just a short stroll from the cathedral lies another of Ely’s treasures: the River Great Ouse. Once a bustling commercial waterway, today it provides a peaceful and picturesque setting for relaxation and exploration. The riverside is perfect for walking or cycling, with scenic paths lined with swans and narrowboats.
Visitors can enjoy a leisurely boat ride, hire a kayak, or simply sip a coffee at one of the riverside cafés while watching the world drift by. The Jubilee Gardens and riverside parkland offer lovely spots for picnicking and photography.
The area around the river is rich in wildlife and history. The Babylon Gallery, located right on the waterfront, features a range of local and national art exhibitions, while the nearby Ely Museum (housed in the city’s old gaol) brings to life the area’s fascinating past from prehistoric times to the present day.
Fabulous Food in the Market Square
I ate with friends in the fabulous Piccolo Restaurant which boasted a menu offering many unique dishes. We all enjoyed a filling brunch and some great coffees and hot chocolates.
Piccolo is also famous for its cocktails so it’s a hive of activity from morning to evening.
It’s a large restaurant with a beautifully decorated interior made into a gallery with plenty of interesting walled items. There are tables outside if you prefer to people-watch in the market square.
A Perfect Day Out or a Weekend Away
Ely is the kind of place where you can do a lot or do very little – either way, you’ll come away refreshed and inspired. With charming independent shops, traditional pubs, and cosy tearooms, the city offers all the ingredients for a quintessential English getaway.
Everything is within easy walking distance of the market square so park up and enjoy strolling around, taking in the sights and relaxing by the river without having to worry about driving.
Only 15 minutes by train from Cambridge and just over an hour from London, Ely is easily accessible yet feels like another world. So whether you’re drawn by the grandeur of the cathedral, the gentle rhythm of river life, or the rich tapestry of history, Ely welcomes you with open arms.
