Memories from Malta – from an old and former Horsted Keynes resident Malta and Gozo always rising in popularity as a tourist venue – particularly in summer

By Albert Fenech 

Is it “the Apple’s Eye” or “the Well of Apples”?

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay

The Islands of Malta and Gozo entered the tourism sector in the late 50s and early 60s, times when I was resident in the UK. The first visitors were mainly British servicemen and their families wishing to once more enjoy the sea and sunshine of their military stay by British Forces before Malta’s Independence.

In the 70s, 80s and 90s when I was resident in Plumpton and Horsted Keynes, the annual figures arrivals started off with a few thousands, increased to hundreds of thousands and has now surpassed over one million annual visitors and has now become one of the country’s main economic pillars – and likely to increase even further!

Ariel view

Without hesitation I have to state that during all these years I missed the wonderful blue sea and the dazzling sunshine, restricted to indoor activities during an unpredictable British summer often of rains and murky weather – and thinking, is this really summer? 

Now, with summer approaching, Malta has received a tremendous boost from no less than a latest issue of the internationally famed and influential Forbes Review.

This reported that in a classification published by the European Best Destinations based on 103,000 tourist votes from 116 countries, Malta’s GHAJN TUFFIEHA BAY has been voted as the most beautiful swimming bay in Europe from among the most selected 15 bays. 

A small explanation of the bay’s name – TUFFIEHA in Maltese means Apple. The forename GHAJN has two explanations. Thus Ghajn Tuffieha can be translated as “The Apple’s Eye” and this is what I believed as a young boy.

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay

HOWEVER, the word Ghajn can also mean, a well, a water well and thus “The Well of Apples” and today I acknowledge this in fact is the original meaning of the bay. 

The EBD justified its choice on the basis of a bay with the highest level of cleanliness and provided services, also recognised by the EU Commission for its sustainability.

Adjoining Golden Bay

Two other Maltese sea localities, St Paul’s Bay and Golden Bay, were also classified in the top 15, together with sandy bays in Greece, Spain and Portugal. 

Further honour for Malta was also classified by the EBD with the island being voted as the third best popular holiday destination in Europe – after Marbella and Monaco, a great honour for the Maltese Islands being among the elite in the best of elites. 

For this, one million tourists from 172 countries voted and in all 500 destinations were listed to be voted for, on the basis of their quality of life, their culture, their hospitality and their heritage against a background of social welfare facilities. 

In its description of Malta, the EBD described it as “the sunny one” and an ideal locality for romance, families and friends and was most popular among those aged 25 to 45 with facilities of beaches, blue seas, the climate and its facilities for deep sea diving.

Besides these two great honours, Forbes also emphasised that Malta is declared as the top best destination for LGBTQ+ persons!

Little wonder therefore, that Malta’s holiday spot destination is growing and growing and this is predicted as being a record annual year for tourist arrivals.

Ghajn Tuffieha Bay is also known as Riviera Martinique or Riviera. It is located on the north western side of Malta very close to a tiny village called Manikata.

This beach is in the middle of two other bays, Gnejna Bay and Golden Bay and high rock peninsula formations create a complete separation between the three bays making each one separate and allowing it its own unique character.

Steps descending into the Bay

Għajn Tuffieħa is a picturesque red sandy beach with however, one disadvantage. To access the bay one has to descend a staircase of 200 steps and naturally this is a vast deterrent for persons with walking handicaps.

The tower at the top of the bay

At the top of the cliffs just west of the bay there is an ancient defence tower which was built in 1637 by the Grandmaster Giovanni Paolo Lascaris, a lookout post with a vision far out over the sea to signal the approach of invasive (especially Ottoman) forces. 

To continue the bay’s heritage, Government works in 1929 discovered a fresh water spring in the area and this naturally gave a new meaning to the name of the bay as Għajn Tuffieħa i.e. The Well of Apples.

Ghajn Tuffieha Roman Baths

The voluminous flow of fresh water led to the Romans constructing the famed Roman Baths in the area, served by abundance of fresh water and within walking distance of the sea bay. 

The baths consist of a number of rooms and include a latrine, the rooms being used for clothes changing necessities but also as dormitories for those wishing an overnight stay.

Ancient Roman mosaics

To continue the enhancement, all the rooms are decorated with intricate mosaics of coloured marbles and stone arranged in geometric designs but the corridor and latrines are paved with ceramic lozenge-shaped tiles of just fewer ten centimeters. 

In 1961, UNESCO stepped in for rooms to be built over all the remains for protection, the same programme which now protects the Domus Romana Villa in Mdina. 

If visiting, good to know that parking on top is highly limited because of space, so either arrive there early or resort to public transport. On the sands lifeguards are available but always check the flag status, RED for danger from turbulent sea waves and BLUE suitable for tranquil bathing. On the left hand side of the bay is a nudists’ area, obviously restricted to children entry. 

Before descending to the beach there is a kiosk for light refreshments and on the beach there is a restaurant but more expensive because of the troubles of the carriage of goods down the bay staircase.

The best way of reaching the bay using public transport:

44: Valletta – Għajn Tuffieħa, every 30 minutes.

101: Cirkewwa – Għajn Tuffieħa – Mgarr, every 60 minutes.

223: Bugibba – Għajn Tuffieħa, every 60 minutes.

225: Sliema – Għajn Tuffieħa, every 60 minutes.

TD5: from Sliema and St. Julian’s, every 60 minutes but this bus runs only in the summer.

 

ALBERT  FENECH

salina46af@gmail.com

 

 

Author

  • Albert Fenech

    Albert Fenech was born in Malta in 1946. His family moved to England in 1954 where he spent boyhood and youth before in 1965 returning to Malta. He spent eight years as a journalist with “The Times of Malta” before taking a career in HR Management Administration with a leading international construction company in Libya, later with Malta Insurance Brokers, and finally STMicroelectronics Malta, employing 3,000 employees, Malta’s leading industrial manufacturer. Throughout he actively pursued international freelance journalism/ broadcasting for various media outlets covering social issues, current affairs, sports and travel. He has written in a number of publications both in Malta and overseas, as well as publishing two e-books. For the last eight years he had been writing a “Malta Diary” with pictures for Lyn Funnel’s B-C-ingU.com international travel magazine.

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