If I had to describe Broadstairs in one word it would be:
Utterly Charming!
OK, so that’s two words, but I really feel the compliment deserves additional impact.
Yes, Broadstairs is utterly, utterly charming.
Steeped in history, it’s set among impressive bays and beaches and offers an abundance of picturesque passages. Secret twittens echo with the whispers of long-dead smugglers. Balconies offer far-reaching town and coastal views and the sea air mingles with the scent of roses that line pedestrian walkways.
Set between the seaside joviality of Margate and the yacht-soaked Ramsgate, Broadstairs is frequently overlooked. It’s a secret jewel that I’m almost reluctant to reveal for fear of blowing its cover.
I rolled into town on a sunny Monday afternoon with Hub at the chariot wheel. Our initial approach took us through a mass of new build residential estates that morphed into a complex of huge “edge of town” stores and leisure centres. Hyper-modern and serviceable but not what we’d come for. Pressing on, we eventually reached our hotel, The Yarrow, in the grounds of Kent College to the west of Broadstairs old town centre. The Yarrow is a beautiful hotel in a gorgeous setting – full review to follow.
As our room wasn’t yet available, we offloaded our luggage and set off walking to Dumpton Gap, a sandy bay that disappears at high tide (so don’t get caught out). It’s set within impressive, chalk cliffs and the walk down to the beach is steep. There’s a small refreshment kiosk and some beach huts that can be hired. Dogs are welcome all year round. There are seasonal toilets and disabled access to the beach. If you’re looking for an unspoilt spot, Dumpton Gap fits the bill. From here, you can walk south along the coast to Ramsgate – just over a mile away – or north along the promenade to Broadstairs. This was the route we followed.
Rounding a corner, we came upon the tiny Louisa Bay where there was another refreshment kiosk. Here, we caught our first glimpse of the lovely Broadstairs. We had a choice of continuing at sea level to Broadstairs beach or taking the stairs to emerge above it. We chose the latter and Broadstairs welcomed us with the well-kept, council-managed, Victoria Gardens featuring a bandstand that offers live music every afternoon. On this Monday, it was the turn of students from Kent College, exercising their vocal chords. We’ll say no more about that. I’m pleased to say the quality improved as the next day we found Tuesday regular, Ian Fox, singing and accompanying himself on the keyboard. By the weekends, entertainment expands to feature bands. It’s impressive that something is on offer every day, all arranged by the council.
We were high up, overlooking Broadstairs’ main Viking Bay and its inviting golden expanse of beach. On this hot day the sands were respectably busy with many people cooling off in the sea. More quaint beach huts lined the sands. At the far end of the bay, towering majestically above, we could see Bleak House, named after the Charles Dickens novel. Dickens is everywhere in the town and we enjoyed a terrific visit to the Dickens House Museum. I’ll write a full review of this in a later, exclusive, feature.
Across the road from the gardens, seemingly out of place on the corner of a residential street, you’ll find Lillyputt Minigolf. It’s well laid-out and a cut above the usual crazy golf that’s a seaside staple. Lillyputt also offers an impressive tea garden. Here, you can enjoy this fun, family activity with sea views and the sounds of the bandstand music drifting across in the afternoons.
Seaside trips simply MUST be accompanied by fish, chips and ice cream, not necessarily in that order. In fact, definitely not in that order because we headed straight for one of Broadstairs’ main attractions, Morelli’s Gelato.
Since 1907, Morelli’s have been making their ice cream fresh each morning. They also offer an array of milkshakes, crepes, gateaux and sundaes so tall that you’re not sure whether to eat them or scale them. But it’s not just these that attract customers. Stepping into Morelli’s is like stepping back in time. Imagine entering beneath the 1950s canopy and finding yourself inside Barbie-world with pink leatherette seating, a real indoor fountain and Elvis and Chuck Berry tunes on the historic juke box. Their Broadstairs soda fountain was the southern Italian Morelli family’s first UK store, opened in 1932. Be warned, a sundae can set you back around £15 but if my milkshake was anything to go by, I’m sure they are quite delicious. They certainly look the part.
We were delighted to happen upon H. E. Harrington Ironmongers on the corner of York Street. It was closed on that Monday afternoon as the store only opens in the mornings, but I popped in the following day and had a chat with Henry, who used to be the owner and has been a fixture for 65 years. Now 87, Henry is clearly still proud of the store he created. I suspect he’s the H in H.E. Harrington, but we had other things to discuss. Did many tourists pop into the shop, given its fame? Henry told me more used to, but not so many now.
So what fame is that? Good question. H.E. Harrington was influential in the Two Ronnies Four Candles Sketch, written by Ronnie Barker. Some say the sketch was filmed inside the store, but that’s not quite correct. However, Ronnie Corbett kept a holiday home nearby and the huge range of goods in stock at Harringtons provided inspiration for the sketch.
We wandered through the old town, just enjoying the tangle of buildings that have developed and been slotted together through the ages. Many, especially those facing the sea, boast New Orleans-style balconies to make the most of their enviable outlook. In the back streets, we found several micro-bars occupying spaces that might once have been considered too tiny to accommodate a hostelry. But Broadstairs is different. One of the most popular is The Magnet micropub on Albion Street. The Magnet serves an excellent selection of unusual ales and ciders. I opted for a Pear & Chilli Cider and it was quite delicious. The Magnet is featured in the Good Beer Guide 2024 and has been commended by CAMRA. Despite its small size, it even offers live music. It has a great, rustic, décor, is friendly and full of character (and characters!).
Just along from The Magnet, we came upon The Chapel, another tiny venue that also offers live music. We were just two days premature to see Sam Brothers perform there.
The Chapel is located in the grade II listed former St Mary’s Chapel, one of the oldest buildings in Broadstairs. In keeping with the unconventional nature of the town, The Chapel is a bar with food, a music venue and a second-hand bookshop! In fact, all over town we found stores mixing roles that are usually kept separate. Fancy an ice cream counter in a dress shop? Why not? Broadstairs doesn’t ascribe to regular boundaries.
The tiny and delightful Palace Cinema sits on Harbour Street. This day it was showing the Lavender Hill Mob with the excellent biographical Anita Pallenberg film, Catching Fire, coming right up. You’d hardly think a cinema would fit into the space but it manages to offer 111 seat, some in a balcony. Grab your popcorn on the way in and enjoy the location as much as the entertainment. It’s been a cinema of sorts since the 1950s. Now Corinna Downing and Simon Ward, owners since 2016, are committed to its continued success.
The narrow streets and alleyways are lined with independent shops and several art galleries. Like Margate, Broadstairs is a hub of creativity. You can feel it in the air. Blue plaques on buildings bear testament to its long association with all kinds of art that this area still enjoys. We were delighted to notice one such plaque commemorating Oliver Postgate, animator, puppeteer and author of the Clangers, Bagpuss and Ivor the Engine.
It’s located on Chandos Square, just behind the seafront and is further embellished by a mosaic of the Clangers created by local mosaic artist, Martin Cheek. Martin works out of Flint House and his studio can be visited round the back on Fort Road, a stone’s throw from the aforementioned Bleak House.
Lisa McGuinness is a Thanet artist whose work you’re likely to see very soon if you travel here by train as she’s been commissioned by South Eastern Trains to produce posters to be displayed across their network. Previously a shoe designer, Lisa now sells her acrylic and watercolour & ink paintings worldwide and has work exhibited across Kent including at the Turner Contemporary in Margate. Her work even adorns the walls of Dreamland’s Roller Disco.
In Broadstairs you can see and buy her prints at Memento on Harbour Street.
In a two day visit, we couldn’t possibly see everything. It would have taken several hours to walk the Viking Coastal Trail or follow the England Coast Path all the way from Pegwell Bay, south of Ramsgate, passing Stone Bay, the Blue-Flag-Awarded Joss & Botany Bays, Palm Bay and Walpole Bay to Margate and beyond. We could have spent an entire day enjoying surfing lessons and surfing at Kent Surf School in Broadstairs or the more secluded Joss Bay Surf School.
With the aid of the excellent and frequent Thanet Loop bus service that links Broadstairs, Margate and Ramsgate, we made the most of our time but we still had to miss out on seeing several attractions. The Crampton Tower was one as it’s only open Friday to Sunday. It’s a must for anyone interested in all things transport. Housed in a historic waterworks building it contains models and exhibits celebrating the works of Thomas Crampton a local Victorian engineer.
It was all credit to Visit Thanet tourist board that we were able to see so much in a short time. Special thanks goes to Julie Edwards who provided me with an excellent itinerary and an abundance of literature to help plan our trip. All over Thanet, you’ll find maps and leaflets. One excellent booklet is Busy Broadstairs 2024, produced by a group of volunteers. Also, be sure to pick up a copy of the terrific, free Isle Magazine, produced annually by editor Kiki Case in a collaboration that includes Thanet District Council. Thanetians(?) welcome tourism and work hard to promote the virtues of their locality. They appear very proud of what’s on offer – they have every right to be.
Look out for my further in-depth articles about Broadstairs events, the accommodation (The Yarrow Hotel) and dining (The Tartar Frigate) we enjoyed and the inimitable Charles Dickens and his love of Broadstairs.
The Yarrow Hotel: https://www.yarrowhotel.co.uk
Lillyputt Minigolf: www.lillyputt.co.uk
Morelli’s Gelato: https://www.morellisgelato.com
The Magnet Micropub: https://www.facebook.com/TheMagnetMicropub/
The Palace Cinema: https://thepalacecinema.co.uk
Lisa McGuinness Artist: https://www.lisaillustrations.com
Martin Cheek Mosaics: https://www.shopmartincheek.com
Kent Surf School: https://kentsurfschool.co.uk
Joss Bay Surf School: https://www.jossbay.co.uk
Crampton Tower Museum: www.cramptontower.co.uk
