By Jane Wilson
Thoroughbreds and racing cars, Chichester, Cowdray and country pubs, a sculpture park and the South Downs Way, you’ll find them all in West Sussex, a place frequented by the Women’s’ Institute, jockeys, Ferrari and even Mr Bean himself.
Formerly a medieval kingdom, West Sussex is the western part of the historic county of Sussex. The county is in the south of England, bordering East Sussex, Hampshire and Surrey and the English Channel. It’s a destination packed with places to see and things to do.
Pull on your boots, fill your backpack and set your trail for the South Downs Way. Stretching 100 mile (160 Km) the old route edges the chalk escarpment and ridges of the South Downs. This well-trodden long-distance footpath and bridleway runs through the county and does not deny or disappoint on spectacular views and bird spotting along the way. Expect to meet likeminded hikers and walkers to exchange a smile and favourite postcard views of rolling hills, lush meadows and bleating sheep And It’s one of 16 National Trails in England and Wales, if you are ticking these off your to do list.
The historical Cathedral city of Chichester is not shy to show its age with its four main streets originally laid by the Romans, and guarded by the remains of its fortified walls and gateways. Chichester was established by Alfred the Great around 878-879 as one of the burhs (fortified towns) and where some parts of the Roman forum, houses and its public baths can still be seen and the 1.5-mile circuit of the city walls can be explored on foot.
Buskers provide entertainment while shopping as well as the renowned Chichester festival and studio theatres, which premiere new works. The season runs between April and November, but book early, these productions are popular and many transfer to the West End. The Pallant House Gallery displays temporary exhibitions as well as a permanent collection of British art. As for natural beauty, Bishop’s Palace Gardens provides great views of the Cathedral and houses a surviving Roman bastion.
Pretty market towns on the must visit list include Midhurst, steeped in history with black and white timber buildings bordering the narrow streets with hideaway stores and cafes. Here there is a mix of medieval Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian architecture and packed with listed buildings. The place has royal connections having hosted Queen Elizabeth 1 and King Henry V111. In contrast, Petworth has a reputation for antiques with over 30 quaint shops and also attracts visitors to Petworth House and Park.
Stately home grandeur awaits your presence at Goodwood, home to the Dukes of Richmond for over 300 years. Today it is owned by Lord March the 11th Duke of Richmond. Set amidst the Sussex Downs, the parkland of the Goodwood Estate covers 4,900 hectares and provides a majestic backdrop to the stately home of Goodwood House. This country house was built in the 1600s and is a Grade I listed building. Its Regency State Apartments hold treasures such as paintings by Stubbs and Canaletto. Other historic houses in the area include Uppark House & Gardens which is a National Trust property and Stansted House, set in 1800 acres of parkland and ancient forest within the South Downs National Park.
Motorbikes, planes and automobiles this is the fast track to adrenalin-fuelled action which attracts enthusiasts from around the globe. The thud of hooves, the spin of wheels while wings hover above, this is Goodwood with its million-dollar racing of horses, cars and motorbikes. Goodwood Race Track is a historic venue for both two-wheeled and four-wheeled motorsport in the United Kingdom. The 3.8 kilometres circuit completely encircles the airfield and dates from 1948 while the Goodwood house’s own hill climb course was first used in 1936. Goodwood boasts an aerodrome which is open all year round with frequent sightings of Hurricanes and Harvards, Spitfires and ultra-modern Cessnas, taking off and coming in to land. This was originally known as RAF Westhampnett, a World War II airfield, where pilots were trained in fighter planes.
Weekends or longer stays, there are annual events from Chilli fiestas, art trails and festival theatres. Racing also brings together the best of modern and classic cars as well as motorbikes from around the world. Celebrated events such as the Goodwood Festival of Speed honour the world of motorsport with legends of Formula One and its teams from Mercedes, Ferrari and Red Bull, while showcasing the latest supercars parading the circuit screaming and screeching from revving engines shrouded in clouds of dust. It’s all about vintage at the Goodwood Revival. Here iconic race cars and bikes, furs & frocks, and gentlemen in tweeds and trilbies create the uniquely stylish atmosphere that sets the scene for this time warped historic motor event. Here you will witness Le Mans winners, British Touring Car Champions, Isle of Man TT winners as well as the famous faces and even Mr Bean racing around the track.
‘Glorious Goodwood’ is fashionable horse racing at its best. Top jockeys and horse owners from all over the world congregate for this calendar event. Top hat and tails and designer outfits gather for a weeks racing. In total 19 days of racing take place at this racecourse between May and October. The Trundle Iron Age hill fort, which overlooks the sleepy hamlet of Charlton, is used as an informal grandstand with views of the whole course and a good spot for free viewing. Back in 1802 the 3rd Duke of Richmond introduced the sport as an amusement for local army officers and it remains a key part of Goodwood today.
Have anything to repair? The BBC’s Repair Shop at the Weald & Downland Living Museum has brought international acclaim to the area and to the museum itself. Historic buildings which include a replica Anglo-Saxon Hall house, Edwardian tin church and a privy attract families to explore across its 40 acres. Here stories reveal those who lived and worked in this rural area for over 1,000 years. The museum runs a varied programme of demonstrations to include its 17th century working watermill and cooking in the Tudor kitchen.
Dotted around are picturesque country pubs, clad with colourful hanging baskets and homemade specialities where they stand proud as the hub of the local community and often with many a tale to tell from the past such as The Fox Goes Free. This hostelry can be traced back to 1915 when it reserved a table for the first Women’s Institute meeting in England on 15th November. It also lays claim as the refreshment stop for William 111 of England and the royal hunting party during his reign from 1689 to 1702. This grade II listed pub in the hamlet of Charlton is a 17th-century flint building with original features and takes its name from the Charlton Hunt which was started in 1670. And for those fans of Dr Who, the episode “Terror of the Zygons” was filmed in its bar.
From rural life to lapping waves, seals and shores. Why not go toe-dipping in the sea, cover your feet in sand, stroll around the bays that border the area from The Witterings, Selsey and the harbour at Bosham with tinkling sail boats, tea rooms and great sun setting landscapes.
With all this culture and activity, a stay in this area could not go without a sip or two of local English wine grown from Sussex soil where the climate is kind to the vines. There is a selection of vineyards to visits, tours to enjoy and tastings to savour of a variety of sparking and still wines from the region. And if visiting Ashling Park Estate, book into one of the new luxury lodges located amongst the vines to relax and reboot for another day in West Sussex
Jane Wilson is a freelance travel writer and member of the British Guild of Travel Writers.
Also editor of www.thewellnesstraveller.co.uk
