There aren’t many buildings that boast more than one English Heritage Blue Plaques, signifying their association with a famous person. At the last count there were 19 such buildings.
On a sunny Wednesday in May, I found myself standing outside one of them bearing plaques for two musical celebrities born 257 years apart.
The Handel & Hendrix house is situated in Brook Street, Mayfair. The major part of the house was purchased as a new build by the celebrated composer, George Friedrich Handel (born 1685) who lived in the house from 1723 until his death in 1759. At that time, the house formed the very outskirts of London, with green fields to its west but, of course, these were soon consumed as London expanded.
Guitarist, Jimi Hendrix (born 1942), occupied the flat above for about a year from 1968. This was a period of his life during which London celebrated his brilliance. He was mingling with his contemporaries so many of whom trundled back to his place after late night concerts to continue drinking and jamming until the early hours.
If only walls could talk!
The Handel floors feature furniture of the time including several harpsichords. The trustees have consulted various documents in order to recreate the rooms as faithfully as possible. One can visit the room where he composed and listen to an informative audio that, naturally, gives a lot in information about his masterpiece, Messiah.
Do pop downstairs to the restored kitchen, and then whizz up to the first floor where you’ll find the aforementioned composing room and main front room where he gave recitals with groups of musicians and a selected audience. The room isn’t that big so one has to take with a pinch of salt a report that it held an audience of 100 people. It’s fascinating to look out of the window onto Brook Street and consider what view Handel might have enjoyed. Most of the buildings seen now weren’t there at his time, but there is one across the road, slightly to the right, that does date from the era. It stands out because it’s smaller than its neighbours.
Do take a look at the paintings around the room. I was particularly impressed by the original Canaletto hanging above the fireplace. It’s unlikely to be the original one Handel owned but he was known to be a collector of the artist’s works, so it was another authentic detail.
Up a further flight of stairs you’ll find Handel’s bedroom and dressing room. The bed is quite narrow and short. Apparently, people preferred to sleep propped up to aid digestion, so the beds didn’t need to be very long. In the dressing room you can see a wig and wig stand that held the item while it was prepared to be worn. Again, there is some fascinating information here about how people of the era lived.
Once you’ve had your fill of Handel, a further flight of stairs will take you 200 years ahead to 1968 and Hendrix’ flat.
There, you’ll find a fabulous display of photos, informative text displays, video and audios, all of which serve to recreate the atmosphere of the time. It’s touching that Hendrix considered this flat, -which he shared with his girlfriend, Kathy Etchingham – as his first proper home. He set about creating the environment he wanted which even involved shopping for fabrics in John Lewis, a short distance away on Oxford Street.
The bedroom is a super room to stand in and just absorb the atmosphere. Looking into the mirror – the original one – is quite thrilling. To think it was now reflecting my image – that same glass that one reflected his. Do take the time to check out all the little touches that make for an authentic 1960s room. It’s just super.
There are many connections, too. You’ll see Hendrix posters on the wall that were once owned by Freddie Mercury, himself a fan. These were bought when Mary Austin auctioned off Freddie’s possessions not long ago.
You’ll find a guide in each room, all very knowledgeable about their subject, so do feel free to ask anything. They are passionate about their subject. They wouldn’t be there otherwise. When asked whether we were there for Handel or Hendrix, I responded that both talents were of interest. It transpired that people who favour Hendrix tend to also have an interest in Handel, but not vice versa. Strange. To me, music is music and talent is talent.
On your way back down the rear stairs, check out the sofa, now covered in an ivory damask fabric. It was Jimi’s own sofa, so you get to plonk your derrière exactly where Hendrix once rested his weary ass, maybe after playing a storming gig, cup of tea in hand, or maybe fingering his guitar. Allow your buttocks to soak up the vibes (man)!
Finally, pay a visit to the gift shop which you’ll find in the rear room on the ground floor. There are all kinds of goodies that’ll make for a great souvenir of your visit, from the standard mug, to the more quirky music-related item.
I should also point out that this place offers far more than just a static collection of facts, figures and artifacts. There’s an active program of events including talks, guitar days (take your own instrument and jam in the studio), and live music.
The Handel Hendrix Trust run the house. It’s an independent charity that relies on donations and volunteers, so if you feel like filling either role, get in touch with them.
So if you’re visiting London and you have even the slightest interest in music, be sure to include a visit to 25 Brook Street to your itinerary. It really is a largely unknown and very special gem.
Handel Hendrix House
25 Brook Street
Mayfair
London
W1K 4HB
Opening times
Monday and Tuesday – Closed
Wednesday – Sunday: 10:00 – 17:00
(last entry at 16:00)
