Most Sussex dwellers are aware of Winchelsea – even if it is only to drive past on the way to its neighbour, Rye. Once though, Winchelsea, now far from the sea, was much larger. It was a port as long ago as Saxon times. The relocated New Winchelsea founded by Edward 1st was built between 1288 and 1295. It flourished into the 14th century then declined due to a combination of factors – war, the Black Death and silting.
Rye is well known and much more visited but Winchelsea has an attraction that Rye lacks. Winchelsea has its cellars. Apparently, only Norwich, Southampton and Chester have similar numbers to those hidden away under the houses and gardens of the town. There is considerable historical information both online and in print about the whys, wheres and hows of this attractive town. Some of this is shared during the tours of the cellars conducted by the Friends of Ancient Monuments (FOAM) or Winchelsea Archaeological Society (WAS). The tours run Saturday morning from April to October and require booking.
We took the tour on 16th August led by John Spencer, who was formerly the Mayor and has lived in Winchelsea for twenty-five years. His own cellar was one we visited. When he bought the house only part of a possible cellar entrance was visible. It took much hard work to excavate and construct means of entry. Even the services of a caver were required to go down the narrow opening in the first instance. John’s cellar reveals the original floor with various pits and holes that would all have had a purpose long ago. To protect the surface a metal mesh to walk on has been added.
Another cellar, with the name ‘Salutation’ is so called because a pub with that name once stood above it, rather than the house there now. It can be seen marked on a map from 1742 that appears in the book ‘Winchelsea’ by Alex Preston. It is easy to imagine barrels being rolled down the stone steps to the cellar below.
Not all the cellars are open to the public. Thirty-three accessible medieval cellars still exist and seventeen other sites are known. We met a resident who is in the process of preparing his cellar to receive visitors. Some owners are reticent to do so because even with two million pounds of insurance it is deemed too dangerous. The steps vary considerably in construction from original stone to concrete or wood and are rather tricky to negotiate. Certainly, no disabled access is possible. I personally, despite being fit, decided one set was too much for me so chose to remain above whilst everyone else descended. They all returned with no mishaps so perhaps I was being over cautious – but better safe than sorry.
One cellar we heard about but could not visit contains graffiti of a rather rude nature. One story attributed it to military personnel from the war whereas another to nefarious goings on in the 1960s. No one really knows and more detail or description was not forthcoming.
Much about the cellars remains conjecture and supposition as although there is, of course, documented history, not everything from so long ago can possibly be known. The Winchelsea of today is a tranquil place but surprises still surely lurk beneath the peaceful exterior waiting to be discovered. When a new house was being constructed near the cliff that once fronted the port, the piles driven down came upon a boat – a remnant of times gone by.
In addition to the cellars the church of St Thomas the Martyr, Thomas Becket is worth a visit. Spike Milligan is buried in the graveyard.
After visiting the cellars, the New Inn, a former coaching hostelry, is a welcome stop for lunch. In the 18th Century, this provided sustenance for travellers between Hastings and Rye.
Dates for the tours of the cellars and more about Winchelsea can be found on www.winchelsea.com.
Definitely worth a visit.
Very interesting Jackie!