Accra is the capital of Ghana which sits on the Atlantic coast of West Africa. It was in 1877 when Accra became the capital of the British Gold Coast colony and 1957 when Ghana, the first African country south of the Sahara achieved independence from colonial rule. Today Accra’s architecture reflects its colonial history, where modern skyscrapers stand alongside 17th century forts and castles. And it’s a melting pot of cultures with bustling streets and head-perched baskets.
Spend a day touring this city and you will find yourself immersed in its history, its people and colourful traditions.
First head to Jamestown, a suburb of Accra, the poorest and oldest district. Walk through the labyrinth of streets and alleyways to see and understand how the locals live; children playing in skimpy clothing, alongside goats searching for food, washing draped over rickety stools and makeshift hairdressing on a doorstep. Hanging in the air, the heavy smell of smoking fish lingers, the sound of music blares from stereo players covering uneven ground while inspired youths use the community boxing ring in the hope to follow Ghana’s two-time champion, Azumah Nelson (1980-90). This traditional densely populated, Ga fishing community demonstrates the strength of an intense community spirit. Within this area stands Ussher Fort which started out as a trading lodge and then developed into a Fort in 1649 during the dark and brutal era of the transatlantic slave trade. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Other historical sites include Fort James and Jamestown Lighthouse. This is a good place to taste the basic dishes of the Ga people who are known for their corn dough eaten with fresh-ground hot pepper and okra soup. And as a coastal location, there is fresh seafood such as shrimps, octopus and fried fish served from its many street stalls.
A short drive away is the enclosed flame of African liberation which was lit by Kwame Nkrumah in 1961 and takes centre stage in Independence Square. Update your knowledge at the National Museum which has three primary collection areas; archaeology, ethnography, and art, which weave together Ghana’s rich cultural history. Do save time for Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park situated in the old British Polo grounds. This is the final resting place of Ghana’s founder. The impressive building contains Nkrumah’s mausoleum as well as a museum charting his life. Its unique design is meant to represent an upside-down sword which in the Akan culture is a symbol of peace. The mausoleum is clad from top to bottom in Italian marble, with a black star at its apex to symbolize unity while the interior is made in marble flooring. This is a peaceful setting of symbolic statues and water laced around the mausoleum.
Busy and colourful, noisy and pushy, Makola Market is the city’s vast bazaar where you will find almost everything for sale. Traditional cloth and glittery jewellery, herbal remedies and fruits piled high to mobiles phone to TVs and sound systems. It’s entertaining and bewildering with a sprawl of racks and shelves and clothes-filled alleys lead to dead-ends and plastic buckets fill corners full of odds and ends. It’s like an open-air jumble market occupying several blocks with vendors desperate to sell their wares.
New Accra is easily identified by its modern buildings, shaped from the county’s rich natural resources and huge foreign investments. Within this area is the national theatre, world trade centre and the UN Memorial. And there’s Oxford Street, popular with expats and shaded by coconut trees. Here there are lively bars, fast food chains and shops such as a bread boutique. Beads bags and bikini sets decorate the side streets while toy dolls and trainers are laid out on concrete spaces as busy traffic, horns buzzing rush past.
One unique must-see has to be the bizarre Fantasy Coffins in Teshie. Laid out on display are rectangular boxes that look more like art pieces than coffins. The decorated coffins represent the occupation of the deceased, or something that was important to them, ranging from cars and cigarette packets to phone and beer bottles! The coffin maker showed me a Ghana plane built for a pilot and a camera created a photographer.
Ashanti African Tours offers a number of itineraries in and around Accra for solo travellers, families and groups. The company is adaptable to meet specific interests. Itineraries include birding, butterfly and wildlife excursions, hiking and biking trips, voluntary work, craft workshops, and festivals. And with more cruise ships calling in to Tema, the port city which is 17 miles to the east of the city, comfortable vehicles and professional, knowledgeable tour guides and drivers collect and meet directly from the ship. www.ashantiafricantours.com (info@ashantiafricantours.com). The company is strongly committed to responsible travel demonstrated by its foundation, Ashanti African Tours Foundation. www.aat-foundation.org which helps the local communities and conservation.
March and April are the hottest months in Accra at 45 degrees while December averages 34 degrees
Photos provided by |Ashanti African Tours.
