By Seren Charrington-Hollins 
Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms, near Machynlleth is Wales’ only two Michelin star restaurant and so it is perhaps no surprise that it being awarded a one-star food hygiene rating sparked media interest, indeed the news has been featured on the BBC news as well as in a variety of newspapers. Only this week I was asked to give a radio interview about whether my preference would be for fine dining (such as the mighty Ynshir Hall) or cheap and cheerful dining (such as Wetherspoons), this debate was sparked by the debate of whether you would be expecting a restaurant of a Michelin-star restaurant to carry a higher food hygiene rating and whether fine dining is worth the money. Well, I opted for fine dine, but I did say that really what I want is good quality food, not microwaved and slapped on a plate.
I think it is really important to remember that food hygiene ratings are reflective of not just hygiene, but of paperwork and many other foods handling processes. The chef behind Wales’ culinary gem, Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms said he is ‘’not embarrassed’’ by the rating, which was received on 5th November 2025, explaining that his restaurant was working, ‘’at the highest standard in the world’ and ‘doing something different’’. Indeed, the Michelin Guide describes the experience of dining at this high-end establishment as ‘a truly unique experience’ and though I have not myself been able to indulge in Gareth Wards’ memorable tasting menu I have no doubt that it is impressive.
Back in 2016 I visited the restaurant and stayed for a night enjoying an afternoon tea and evening meal, it was perfect. Indeed, when you are looking for a hotel stay that offers luxury as well as sanctuary for the senses then Ynyshir Hall in Mid Wales is well worth considering. Set in the historic hamlet of Eglwysfach in the heart of stunning Welsh countryside the location of this boutique hotel offers fresh mountain air that is so pure that each breath seems to purify the body; whilst the sound of bird song is the only interruption to being lost in one’s own thoughts.
Ynyshir Hall has a wealth of charm and history and as I drove up the sweeping gravel drive for the first time the 16th Century Mansion looked every bit as spectacular as I imagined it might. On the day I entered the hotel I was warmly welcomed by the then owner, the late Joan Reen and her bright eyed, friendly St. Bernard dog, called, Theo. Although it has since changed hands, Gareth Ward was still at the helm in the kitchen and the beautiful and innovative food I enjoyed was testimony to this. After a long, but scenic drive I was glad to relax in the lounge with a gin and tonic and as sank into the serenity of this country house hotel; it struck me that whilst Ynyshir Hall has a truly fascinating history; it was no stuffy country residence. When I visited in 2016 its vibrant interior décor was a real breath of fresh air, but then with its very own artist in residence it was always going to be unique. Rob Reen is not only joint proprietor of the hotel, but he is a professional artist. Working mainly in oil on canvas his works are often inspired by the local landscape and are on display throughout the property. I was most taken with his exhibition entitled ‘Studies of Sheep’ which was on display throughout the hotel and was completely enchanting.
Throughout the ages Ynsyshir hall has been cherished by a series of eminent owners including Queen Victoria, who was responsible for planting many of the trees that still grace the gardens today. However, if the history of royal ownership alone isn’t enough to impress you, then it is worth considering that the famous Welsh Poet RS Thomas was the vicar of the local church at Eglwysfach and then of course we must not forget that legendary rock group Led Zeppelin wrote Stairway to Heaven about the nearby Artists’ Valley.
In 1928 Ynyshir Hall was sold to William Hubert Mappin of the distinguished British jewellers, Mappin and Webb. Mappin continued to develop the gardens, however, on his death in 1966, a thousand acres of the estate were sold to the Royal Society for Protection of Birds (RSPB), to establish the bird reserve that still exists today and was the filming location of the popular television show, BBC’s Spring Watch.
You certainly don’t have to worry about being bored at this refined hotel for if you tire of the fourteen-acre garden, you can take a walk on a wild beach, climb a mountain or simply recline in the bar with a good book. An easy circular walk from Ynyshir Hall will take you sufficiently high for a spectacular view of the Dyfi Estuary, while the more adventurous can explore the beauty of the Cambrian Mountains. The scenery is magnificent and more stunning than I ever anticipated.
Ynyshir Hall certainly has a lovely, warm atmosphere and to be honest I was quite happy to entertain myself by milling about the gardens and taking afternoon tea; complete with homemade marshmallows in additional to the more traditional afternoon tea staples. After indulging in one of the most luxurious afternoon teas I have ever had the delight to partake in I was happy to just retreat to bedroom and take in the spectacular views overlooking the Cambrian Mountains. I stayed in the Chagall Garden Suite, set slightly apart from the hotel, this was a real retreat. With huge film-star bathroom, lounge, private balcony and a fireplace made from stone quarried from its own gardens. Then there was complimentary decanter of sherry, a huge antique bed and sumptuous décor; it is true to say that I really did feel like a queen for the entire stay and the mix of traditional and contemporary styles was expertly executed.
A string of famous guests have graced this boutique hotel including Richard Gere, Denise Van Outen, Patricia Routledge, Rob Brydon, Carol Smillie, Alison Steadman and Jeffrey Archer. Whilst on the walls of reception there are personal tributes to the hotel owners from Eddie Izzard, Richard Gere and Julia Ormond. It truly is a unique place and it was nice to know that my visit was amongst a legacy of famous faces.
My stay was fast approaching its conclusion, but a lasting memory will always be dining in the Michelin starred restaurant. Whilst the art of the walls of the restaurant was inspirational, the food on the plates was pieces of art in their own right. Head chef, Gareth Ward, and his team have succeeded in creating innovative tasting menus that are designed to delight. The kitchen garden produces wonderful fruit, vegetables, herbs and salads that are picked and presented for eating within minutes.
Foraged wild foods such as mushrooms, samphire, elderflower, pine, eucalyptus, wood sorrel and wild garlic are collected seasonally and not only are they all delicious thanks to the purity of the local soil, water and air; but they give an authentic taste of Wales and a truly seasonal edge to the gastronomical delights on offer. The kitchen’s attention to detail and flair in presentation is commendable with the main emphasis of the restaurant being about taste and creating exciting flavours using only the best of Welsh produce.
The finale to the eight-course tasting menu was having a chef attend my table with a canister of liquid nitrogen and as my ice cream was duly frozen in front of my eyes, I can only conclude that it was very tasty food theatre.
No wonder they have won awards and I have no doubt that despite the recent low food hygiene rating that with such spectacular food comes a very high standard of kitchen management. I think that there has to be an understanding of how the current food hygiene rating system works, because it certainly is not poorly down to how clean the kitchen is and well run the kitchen is, but instead management systems, processes used and a variety of other things are taken into consideration, for example cheese is best served at room temperature, but of course this is a practice that would not be allowed by environmental health and would constitute a down rating and such cheese being confiscated.
I’ve no doubt that Ynyshir will be in the news again soon for having restored their good rating and in the meantime I have no doubt they will continue dishing up wonderful cuisine.
Contact:
ynyshirhall.co.uk;
Ynyshir Hall, Eglwysfach, Machynlleth, Powys, SY20 8TA
Tel: 01654 781 209 Email: info@Ynyshirhall.co.uk
