Out of many tourist attractions of Central India, Indore is one such destination that reflects the art, culture and history of state of Madhya Pradesh. During the 16th century it was a trading hub between Delhi (North India) and the Deccan (South India). The city of Indore, though modernised today, still echos the greatness of the royal family of Holkars, who ruled it from year 1724 till India became independent in 1947.
In the heart of the city stands the ‘Rajwada’ (the Holkar Palace) which is a unique monument that is surrounded by a buzzing marketplace called the Khajuri market. Clothes, food stalls, jewellery and religious artefacts are sold around at a very reasonable price. For a visiting tourist it may be overwhelming to move between the congested traffic, vendors and commuters, right outside the main gate of the palace. But the vibrant exterior ambiance acts as a dramatic background, when one proceeds to explore the interiors of the historical palace. As one enters the premise of the Rajwada, one can feel a sudden pull into a Time Machine, that transports us from the modern world into the life and administrative times of the Holkar dynasty, that prosperously ruled Indore for almost 2 centuries!
The palace has an open courtyard in the middle, surrounded by building structures on all four sides. A 360-degree view from the midst of the palace courtyard reveals the fact that each side is unique and depicts Maratha, Moghul, French and South Indian architectural design styles. Tourists are allowed to visit only few rooms of the palace upto to the second floor. Malhar Rao Holkar, the founder of Holkar dynasty initiated the construction of the palace in the year 1747 AD. The palace has witnessed many royal ceremonies, cultural programs and political events since then. The intricate carvings, arches and unique window styles called ‘jharokhas’, highlights the royal old-world charm that the palace premise has to offer.
As one tours the premise, a flight of stairs leads to the first floor which is where the ruling monarchs would held their daily court. The Holkars who ruled Indore were known for their acumen in winning battles, doing fair trade and restoring culture legacy. Over the years, the palace has witnessed both good and bad times in its functional tenure. On one side it has pompously celebrated the victories of Malharrao Holkar’s Maratha conquests but on the other hand it has witnessed horrifying fire that set the palace ablaze on three different occasions in history!
Just behind the main palace premise is situated the Holkar Gallery. It is a museum that showcases unique artefacts of Holkar royal family and also about Indore’s glory. The first thing tourists are expected to do after paying an entry fee of Rs. 10 is to remove their footwear on a shoe rack near the entrance. Since there are idols of Hindu deity and the Holkar dynasty’s home temple inside the museum premise it is a mandatory ritual that must be followed. It is a visual treat to view the stone and metal idols of Hindu deities, portraits of members of the royal family and get a glimpse of various artefacts depicting the life and times of bygone Indore. The centrally situated garden that receives natural light from above, lights up the ground floor of the museum. The fully grown holy basil plant adorns the garden, along with Lord Shiva and Lord Ganesh idols in its vicinity. The arrangement of the interiors thus defines the traditional Maharashtrian Hindu identity of the gallery, which was once upon a time the private residence of the Holkar family. The top floor section of the gallery showcases swords, utensils, weaving loom and a royal palanquin that summarises the life in the Malwa region of India in which Indore is situated. While exploring the gallery, the most highlighting information one gets to know is the extraordinary rule of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar who ruled the state of Indore after the untimely death of her husband. In those times, given the prevalence of strong patriarchal values, it was unusual for Indian women to be in matters of politics and warfare. Malharrao Holkar, the queen’s father-in-law was liberal minded and known to be a man ahead of his times, who had unwavering confidence in her military and administrative skills. On the death of his only son, he requested his daughter-in-law to ascend the throne and continue the legacy of good and prosperous governance, that the Holkar rulers were known for.
The last section of the museum hosts a photo gallery that showcases the role of the Holkar dynasty’s modern achievements related to town planning and contribution to war efforts during the 1st World War. Photos of the primitive railway systems of Indore, the coronation ceremonies and the war photographs paint a nostalgic picture for the visitors. The photograph in which the soldiers from Holkar state army are standing shoulder to shoulder with the French army, depicts the Holkar dynasty’s contribution towards the victory of the Allied forces during the First World War.
There is yet another tourist attraction that the tourism department of Madhya Pradesh has incorporated in the palace premise. A sound and music show are held on the palace premise every day at 7 to 8pm. The life and times of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar is narrated in an hour-long audio-visual show that is projected on the interiors of the palace walls. For every history, architecture, art and culture lover the palace and the museum are an intellectual feast and a place to get inspired from the life and times of the Holkar dynasty of Indore.
Photos Courtesy: Shraddha C. Sankulkar
