Tucked away in the rolling landscape of the Sussex Weald, Lakedown at Burwash is one of those rare places where history, creativity and countryside calm seem to exist in wonderful harmony. At first glance, it is a tranquil rural escape: fishing lakes shimmering beneath open skies, anglers casting lines in near silence and visitors sipping locally brewed beers beside the water’s edge. But beneath this peaceful surface lies a story that stretches back centuries and connects unexpectedly with one of Britain’s most iconic musicians.
At the heart of Lakedown’s story is nearby Holmshurst Manor, a striking Jacobean house built in 1610 by local landowner Goddard Hepden. Constructed from brick with stone dressings and retaining many original features, it sits comfortably within the landscape, surrounded by farmland and shaped by centuries of rural life.
This historic estate took on a new chapter when it was purchased in 1970 by Roger Daltrey, frontman of the legendary rock band The Who. Perhaps he sought respite from the intensity of touring life, or maybe he caught the agricultural bug even as a three month old, evacuated with his mother to a farm in Scotland during WWII. Whatever the initial motivation, he began shaping the surrounding estate to match his vision.
That vision became Lakedown.
In the early 1980s, Daltrey designed and created Lakedown Trout Fishery, transforming part of the estate into a series of four spring-fed lakes. The result was not just a fishery, but a sanctuary – an environment deliberately removed from the noise of modern life. My neighbour, Paul, has been coming here to fish for many years. It’s his escape – his “man shed.”
The fishery quickly became a defining feature of Lakedown, representing a reimagining of the traditional Sussex estate: still productive, still rooted in the land, but shaped by modern sensibilities.
That evolution has continued in recent years with the addition of Lakedown Brewing Co., situated alongside the fishery. Established in the early 2020s, the brewery uses local ingredients and, notably, the estate’s own spring water, to produce its beers and cider. The crispness of the natural spring water gives the resulting ale a clear, fresh taste, devoid of the underlying hint of chemical we sometimes perceive in our tap water.
Interestingly, the presence of historic oast houses on the estate, originally used for drying hops, creates a subtle continuity between past and present. Long before the rise of craft beer culture, this part of Sussex was deeply connected to brewing traditions. Lakedown’s brewery carries that baton into the present day.
On this early Spring evening, I’ve travelled to Lakedown in the company of Paul and his lovely wife. The fish can rest easy, though, as we’re here to visit the Taproom that overlooks one of the lakes.
Sir Roger’s aim was to create a “log cabin in the Ozarks” atmosphere, and he’s succeeded rather well. It’s a place where local farmers can call in for an after-work pint without feeling the need to spruce up, where dogs are more than welcome (even if they’ve rolled in something, I suspect), where slightly pungent anglers can warm themselves in front of the wood burner and chill out after a day – em – chilling out by the lake.
Roger is clearly proud of the Taproom. He has every right to be as he called on his past experience as a sheet metal worker to get involved in its construction. The Taproom we’re in this evening opened just over a year ago but Roger tells me to take a look at the more recent attached addition. I do as I’m told and find a barn-like section of the building housing wooden picnic tables and benches plus a stage. Roger tells me they aim to have live music in there when the weather improves.
Tonight, though, we’ve come along to enjoy a relaxed gathering of local musicians led by superb singer/guitarist, Bob Melrose. I’ve seen Bob play a number of times. One of the things that sets him apart from the next acoustic guitarist/singer is his song choice. Bob frequently selects numbers one wouldn’t normally expect to hear performed by one man and his guitar. The Beatles’ A Day In The Life, Elton’s Rocket Man, Hendrix’ Voodoo Chile, Seal’s Crazy, for example.
This evening, Bob’s brought his band and he’s joined by Tomas Siroky who plays the most beautiful, huge double bass. The instrument’s been in service since before World War I and it bears some genuine battle scars which Tomas proudly shows us. We particularly get to hear the warm timbre of the instrument when Tomas plays a solo in George Harrison’s Something.
New band member, Oli Fleming brings a most satisfying element to the trio’s rendition of Tennessee Whiskey with his skilful mandolin playing. And finally, another reason I was able to hitch a ride here with my neighbour, Paul, is because he’s a whizz on the harmonica. He adds his harp magic to several numbers including Canned Heat’s On The Road Again and an all-hands-on-deck finale of Zeppelin’s Whole Lotta Love, rounding the evening with a flourish.
What makes Lakedown particularly compelling is the layering of stories. A Jacobean manor built in the early 17th century. A rock legend seeking a quiet refuge. A fishery carved from the land as a place of calm. A brewery bringing people together over something as simple as a well-made pint. And now, the addition of live music bringing the story full circle.
The Daltrey family have a fine line to tread between their plans for Lakedown and their desire to maintain its status as a hidden gem. The last thing they want is to create another Diddly Squat Farm scenario.
The surrounding landscape plays no small role in Lakedown’s appeal. Burwash itself sits within the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, a region characterised by rolling hills, ancient woodland and a patchwork of fields that have changed little over the centuries. It’s a landscape that’s inspired writers, artists and thinkers – including Rudyard Kipling, who lived nearby – and it continues to offer that same quiet inspiration today.
That may be why Lakedown feels so distinctly Sussex. It’s not grand or showy, but quietly rich in character offering, to those who seek it out, a rare sense of continuity in an increasingly fast-moving world. Perhaps best summed up when I ask Roger whether he still travels much – he gestures to his surroundings: “Why would I want to leave?” Why, indeed?
Visit Lakedown website for further information and live music dates.
That sounds like a really lovely spot to visit – I’ve always been fascinated by how music and history can intertwine like that.