Brighton has never been a city that does things quietly. Even its shopping streets seem to have personalities of their own, and nowhere is that more apparent than in the two neighbouring areas known as The Lanes and the North Laine.
Although their names sound confusingly similar, they offer distinctly different experiences. The historic Lanes are a maze of narrow alleyways and twittens, packed with jewellery shops, antique dealers, boutiques and places to eat. The North Laine, meanwhile, is its slightly rebellious younger sibling – colourful, bohemian and seemingly determined not to take shopping too seriously.
If you are looking for a conventional shopping trip, neither is particularly conventional. But if you want to browse, rummage, people-watch and occasionally wonder why on earth you suddenly feel you need a silver skull ring, Brighton has you covered.
The Lanes
Cross over from the seafront and you’re a few steps from Brighton’s famous Lanes. Appearing in many tourist guides as one of Brighton’s “must visit” attractions, The Lanes occupy the older part of the city (yes, Brighton and Hove is a city) and date back in places to the late 16th century, when the town was still known as Brighthelmstone. With narrow passageways, tiny squares and old buildings, they’re a fascinating labyrinth in which a tourist can browse for hours – and spend a small fortune!
Here, jewellery is very much the star of the show. The Lanes have become famous for their concentration of jewellers, with everything from contemporary silver and designer pieces to antique and vintage jewellery. There are also numerous antique shops and centres where you can browse ceramics, silver, glass, paintings and all manner of objects that somebody, somewhere, once decided were worth keeping.
For an antique enthusiast, it is particularly easy to lose an hour or two here. You can start out looking for a Victorian brooch and end up examining an Art Deco lamp, an old photograph and a piece of silver you absolutely don’t need but suddenly cannot live without.
Add a smattering of designer shops – clothing and jewellery, and suddenly the expensive car parking fees pale into insignificance.
The North Laine
Head further away from the seafront, crossing North Street and duck into Bond Street, entrance to The North Laine. This area is probably the place that most closely matches the Brighton that people imagine before they arrive. Its streets are filled with independent shops selling vintage and bohemian clothing, unusual gifts, artwork, records, books, accessories and jewellery. There are also plenty of cafés and restaurants serving food from around the world, so you can travel several continents without actually leaving Sussex.
It is a colourful, bustling part of the city, with street art, outdoor stalls, performers and musicians adding to the atmosphere. You don’t have to wait for the weekend to find that some streets become particularly lively, with shoppers, diners and entertainers spilling into the road.
One of my favourite things about wandering around here is that you never quite know what you are going to find. A shop that looks tiny from outside can reveal another room, another floor or an Aladdin’s cave of things you didn’t know existed.
Porta, on Bond Street, is a good example. This long-standing jewellery and accessories boutique specialises in unusual pieces with unusual ethnic clothing made from some exquisite materials. It is the sort of shop where a quick look can easily turn into, “Well, I didn’t intend to buy anything, but…”
Then there is Dave’s Comics in Sydney Street, a paradise for anyone whose childhood involved comics, superheroes or collecting things they probably should have grown out of. From comics, graphic novels and manga to toys, figurines, games and posters, it is one of those wonderfully specialist shops that makes independent shopping so much more interesting.
Across the road is North Laine Music that always looks closed due to its window’s transparent yellow sun guard – but it’s more likely to be open. Heavily focused on providing for the guitarist, it’s packed full of modern and retro pedals and instruments. Well worth a browse if this is your bag.
And when your legs finally demand a rest, head for the Green Dragon pub at 8-9 Sydney Street. It is a small, characterful pub with a traditional Irish feel, real ales and a rear patio. A selection of pies, plus live music are among its attractions.
The real pleasure, though, is wandering between the two areas. The Lanes feel historic, intimate and slightly treasure-filled; the North Laine feels youthful, creative and gloriously eccentric.
Add street musicians providing an impromptu soundtrack, international food tempting you from doorways and the inevitable collection of shoppers dressed in everything from vintage glamour to something that appears to have been designed during a particularly imaginative dream, and you have Brighton at its most Brighton-like.
You may come home with something you never intended to buy. You may discover a new favourite pub. You may hear a brilliant street musician.
Or you may simply spend the afternoon wandering around wondering whether Brighton has ever actually heard of normal.
Hopefully, it never will.
(All photos © Maria Bligh)
