“Is This The Way to Amarillo”
When I was a child I watched movies where the Comanches galloped across the plains, their silhouettes highlighted against the horizon, A whoosh of sand dust would follow in their trail as they disappeared into the sunset. Never did I dream that I would be standing in the same place depicted on screen all those years ago.
But I’m standing here, in the exact vicinity, in the heart of the Texas Panhandle of the USA. Amarillo is a place with a pioneering spirit, a territory steeped in cowboy tradition. Here the people hold a great respect for their land, history and culture. Looking out across the flat landscape it’s like a patchwork of plains with carpets of yellow hues from daisies, golden wheat fields and native prairie grass. This is big cattle country, fresh clean air and arid dry.
The Palo Duro Canyon State Park, is the “Grand Canyon of Texas” and the second largest in the US. It was on these grasslands where the last ruling native American tribe in Amarillo, the Comanches, and their last chief, Quanna Parker, lived inside caves, under tepees and within the canyons of the Llano Estacado. Today, you can hike, mountain bike, or horse ride along the pathways of the former grazing lands of the historic JA Ranch, which was founded in 1876 by Charles Goodnight. The canyon offers a visual display of century old rock formations such as the layers known as the Spanish Skirts lining the flat trails and the craggy face of Fortress Cliff, bathed in everchanging natural light. (Watch out for rattlesnakes, coyotes and bobcats) It’s a place of quiet stillness and ideal for star gazing under the dark skies.
One way to capture the spirit of the land is in the saddle, riding posse style along the rim of the canyon, trotting between cacti, cedar and mesquite in the open plains. It was here that part of the Indiana Jones & The Last Crusade was filmed. At sunset, blushed by the retiring light, you feel the mystic of the landscape and the lives of the past. Horseback riding at Cowgirls & Cowboys in the West, is an all-women ranch on the Los Cedros Ranch providing a genuine taste of ranching heritage. And even a typical chuckwagon dinner reminiscent of the chuck box invented in 1886 by Charlie Goodnight, while listening to tales of those who once roamed here. It is often said that the soul of the land can be heard. Listen carefully, you may hear the thud of ghost hooves galloping around the rim. (For those with any aching muscles after the 2-hours ride, there’ the luxurious and contemporary Awaken Med Spa to provide a soothing Swedish massage).
Cowgirl and cowboy boots made to help.
Make sure you have the right attire for riding and immersing yourself in this authentic culture. You can buy cowboy/cowgirl hats to suit your style and steamed to fit your head but boots are a more serious choice. Beck Boots in Amarillo is a family-owned business with a rich history of handcrafting premium, customised cowboy boots. For generations, they’ve combined traditional techniques with exceptional craftsmanship to create boots that are stylish and of course, durable while still using 1940s machines from Europe. It’s worth a visit and tempting to leave as an owner of genuine Texan boots. For a customised pair, it’s decision-making all the way. After precision sizing, you decide on colour, shade, toe shape, tongue shape, sole type, heel style, spur ledge, straps preference, design and colour of stitching, number of rows (phew!). It is no surprise that they make 9 pairs a day, 10 weeks for a basic pair and up to a year to customise, but it’s worth it.
The Texas Panhandle
Amarillo is aglow like the days of old, with its vertical neon sign which are still handmade here at the Skyright Sign Company.Live country music strums on stages in bars and parking lots with boots tapping, stirrups jingling and hats nodding while the Amarillo Symphony, Opera and Lone Star Ballet perform in the more formal setting of the Globe-News Center for the Performing Arts. The community art scene is vibrant. too. The First Friday Art Walk held at Arts in the Sunset showcases impressive works by local artists. And its hands-on. I tried my hand at glass-blowing under the guidance of Blind Bird Designs. Inspiring, educational and fun and a finished coloured glass flower for my effort! But if you want to display your wild side, grab a can of spray paint and join other enthusiasts adding to the riot of colour coating the half-buried Cadillacs at Cadillac Ranch. This public art installation was created in 1974 by the Ant Farm art collective and has become a key symbol of Route 66 culture and now one of the most visited attractions. In a similar offbeat, playful style, the Slug Bug Ranch (exit 96 off I-40), is a line-up of half-buried Volkswagen Beetles and old limos used by the Big Texan restaurant. This is definitely a mile of Amarillo worthy of car cruising. Don’t forget to check out Lile Art Gallery for exclusive cadilite jewellery made with paint chips from Cadillac Ranch!
Route 66
Amarillo is conveniently located mid-way on Route 66, the “mother road” between Chicago and Santa Monica. This is the road that shaped America and celebrates its centenary in 2026. The Amarillo Historic Route 66 District, is lined with a mile of mom & pop businesses with wacky names to match; The Handle Bar for the bikers, Rusted Relics Antiques, Smokey Joe’s where bands play in the parking lot and Aunt Eeks with shelves of books & curiosities. The Nat was a music venue where the likes of Elvis and Buddy Holly played and today is a crowded bargain basement of antiques. Established in 1946, The Golden Light Café is the oldest continuously operating café on route 66 and listed on the national register of historic places. It’s a café by day, cantina by night with music performers.
Drive a little further on Route 66, some 40 minutes away, to Vega and its vintage buildings. The restored Magnolia Gas station is a reminder of the golden era of Route 66, the Milburn-Price Cultural Museum’s exhibits capture the essence of small-town life while across the road is Dot’s mini-museum. Take a seat at Mama Joe’s Pies and Sweets for baked treats in a cosy, small-town setting. Marking the exact halfway point of Route 66 is Adrian where the Midpoint Café is synonymous with the photo opportunity at the Midpoint sign and for its ugly pies.
Where to stay
The Barfield Hotel is a luxury boutique hotel downtown and sits directly onto Route 66. This restored historic building is cloaked in the heritage of the Texas Panhandle region. Cowhide covers the chairs and decorates the elevators servicing 112 stylish guest rooms and there’s even a speakeasy in the basement requiring a secret code for entry to the popular bar it is today. With a storied past, secrets seem embedded in its walls.
Eat & Drink
The Big Texan in Amarillo, is a family-owned icon and famous for its 72-ounce steak challenge, (a woman holds the current title after consuming 3). They source their premium steaks from local Texas ranches and is certainly a true taste of Texas, set in a lively casual atmosphere. The Western Horseman Club in Amarillo serves hearty, homestyle favourites in a ranching-themed atmosphere in contrast to the Metropolitan Steakhouse & Seafood which is a more refined culinary experience with chandeliers and a dark draped curtained interior. Views of hangers, homes and planes zooming into the sky while tucking into hearty burritos is served at Shelby’s Diner, a nostalgic setting for local cowboys, Harley bikers and visitors alike. With the wide variety of bars and restaurants, there is a dish to satisfy all tastes and appetites.
Amarillo certainly has a lot to sing about. A visit to the authentic cowboy culture proves that the spectacular and expansive scenes on screen do exist in reality and stretch across landscapes as far the eye can see. And one worth singing about. https://www.visitamarillo.com
