Jane Wilson travels to the Loire Valley
A gleaming Cadillac was parked against the backdrop of a fairy-tale Château as we arrived at the hotel, Relais de Chambord, the only hotel nestling within the 5,400-hectare private estate and nature reserve and, even better, a mere 50 metres from the enchanting Château. I was here for a two-night getaway in the Loire Valley.
Relais de Chambord opened in 2018 but was originally built in the 16th century as the King’s stable for the Château de Chambord. It offers 55 guest rooms and suites, including 15 with a view of the Château and formal gardens and others with a view of the Cosson river, all with décor to reflect a unique perspective of the location. Inside, the hotel’s chic design joins forces with a country house style: a library-themed lobby, a billiard table and fireplace in elegant living rooms, objet d’art to surprise around every corner and even sculptures leaping from walls. An additional floating suite lies onboard a traditional flat-bottomed boat two minutes away. And to double dose in this tranquil haven, there is a small wellness area with two treatment rooms, steam room, sauna and outside jacuzzi. This boutique hotel blended seamlessly with its idyllic surroundings and a perfect location to drink in the history which surrounds it.
Outside, gracing the gravel driveway, the gold Cadillac Sedan Fleetwood awaited. Built in 1964, it is often referred to as the Rolls Royce of American cars, complete with a squashy interior of black leather bench seats bordered with varnished woodwork in hardtop pillarless style with electric windows, all powered by a big V8 engine. This was a unique way to capture rural French life in style and fun. The tour transported us under tunnels of shading trees, along quiet roads as we looked out to the rich landscape renowned for its wines which explains why this area is known as the Garden of France.
The Cadillac’s first stop called at a local family-owned vineyard, Domaine des Huards, which covers 42 hectares in Cour-Cheverny. For over seven generations it has been owned by the Gendrier family who practice biodynamic farming (a method of organic farming), ideal conditions for the estate which sits on limestone and vines surrounded by forests, ponds and prairies. With five different grape varietals, wine tasting included blends of Pinot-Noir & Gamay which produce a fresh and fruity bouquet with aromas of cherry, citrus fruits and redcurrant. A must-try was the sparkling Crémant de Loire, a blend of dominant Chardonnay & Pinot-Noir. These mineral fresh light wines are reflective of the taste of the Loire region.
Traditional Lunch
From wine tasting, we travelled in search of old-fashioned home cooking at Le Col Vert Inn where we tucked into grandmother’s chicken, roasted on a spit in the old fireplace, served with good old mashed potatoes. This was followed by dessert. “Cream doesn’t leave the spoon “our host explained, as we were served tarte tatin and a dollop of cream – no spills here and every crumb devoured.
The original architecture and style of this authentic restaurant had been preserved to reveal the old beams, a cast iron stove, bricks and tiles made of the region’s Sologne clay. We were surrounded by family treasures on show, from tableware to furniture, crockery and glasses. This was cosy, traditional and homely hospitality at its French best, in a small village called Bauzy. (aubergelecolvert.fr). The hotel offers these engaging slow travel experiences to lure guests away from its movie setting long enough to miss it. So, in style, we cruised in the Cadillac back to the majestic Château.
Château de Chambord
At the request of the dashing young prince Francois I, (1494-1547) the Château de Chambord was built in 1519. Today, it stands proudly as an emblematic representation of French Renaissance style – a unique architectural jewel towering to the sky with turrets, spires, and the central tower with classical renaissance structures. It was not designed as a permanent residence but a show off creation in stone to symbolise power enjoyed by French presidents. It is famous around the world for its amazing double helix staircase, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci, which is the ascending spiral staircases leading to a cornucopia of chimneys and terraces. In 1940 the Château de Chambord was registered on the first list of French historical monuments, as were the forest park and the estate wall in 1997. Since 1981, it has been inscribed on UNESCO’s world heritage list. It’s also popular for concerts, Sting and the Black-Eyed Peas have performed in front of its facade. It is the second most visited attraction in France, after Versailles with 77 staircases, 282 fireplaces, nine floors and is he biggest closed park in Europe.
Private Estate & Gardens
In 2016, after 12 years of research the previous 18th century gardens from Louis XVs era were reinstated. Laid out like embroidery patterns, the landscaped formal gardens are carpeted with grass, knitted with trees stitched with flower beds and entwined with gravel pathways. Strolling around the grounds, which are hemmed in by a moat is highly recommended. Since 2017 Chambord has been creating new trails that allow visitors into parts of the grounds that were previously closed to the public.
Activities
The hotel arranges a host of activities from tours of the Château to bicycles (electric bikes available) to explore the forest and grounds along marked routes, guided by the turrets of the castle to steer you back. Others include a hot air balloon-ride, boating on the waterways around the Château or enjoying the 20 km of paths at leisure throughout the grounds to explore the nature reserve with a forest guide to explore the formal gardens. Don’t forget your camera to capture the timelessness of this Château adorned in former glory, flooded in daylight, drenched in the evening rays, wistful in the haze of sunrise, dreamy and romantic at sunset and majestic in the full light of day. The hotel arranges the classic car experiences. You can choose your tour destination which include the Loire Valley, Sologne, Cher Valley, Dormouse Valley, Touraine and also your car choice which date from 1950 to 1985, making them between 40 and 75 years old.
Fine Dining
Such activities build an appetite satiated by the hotel’s fine dining experience in Le Grand Saint-Michel elegant restaurant. Creative dishes are made from local ingredients and from Chambord’s vegetable gardens to offer a tempting seasonal five or seven course menus. Think Land Duck Foie Gras with Veal Sweetbreads and Port Jelly, Angus Sirloin with Brazilian Black Pepper flambéed in Cognac or Roasted Pike Perch on the Skin. Dine inside or on the terrace overlooking the Château The estate is still home to hunting of wild boar and deer often featured on the menu. The refined bar offers a wide range of signature cocktails which are hard to resist too. There is also a more casual restaurant, Les Armes du Chateau, minutes from the hotel.
And as the sun descended, the light show commenced, bathing the Château in hues of colour, watched from my hotel window. The two-night luxury experience at the Relais de Chambord with its enviable setting within landscaped acres of a private estate had come to an end, tranquil, historic and picturesque.
Getting there:
Eurostar
From London St Pancras International to Paris Gare du Nord takes 2 hours, 20 minutes by train. Transfers take 1.5 hours from Paris and can be arranged with the hotel
Hotel prices starts from €141 a night, room only
This year the Loire Valley is celebrating its 25th Anniversary of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Visit Relais De Chambord: https://relaisdechambord.com/en/
Relais de Chambord is part of the Marugal Hospitality Management portfolio which specialises in the development, launch and operation of unique luxury hotels, and includes Cap Rocat in Mallorca, Dunas de Formentera and Christian Louboutin’s first hotel, Vermelho, in Melides, Portugal. A member of the Small Luxury Hotels collection
