It seems you can’t open a paper or magazine these days without reading about the gentrification of Margate and the corresponding increase in its house prices. All this may be true, but you don’t have to move to Margate to enjoy its benefits. Visitors have been enjoying visits to the seaside here since 1736. Heck, even Karl Marx woz ‘ere (according to his blue plaque) in 1866.
Recently, I made my fourth visit to the town. I enjoy its bohemian feel, it’s abundance of artistry, its quirkiness and friendliness, I even take pleasure in its “seedy” areas. Seedy areas? I think every seaside town has them. The seaside seems to attract people who’ve chosen, or been forced, to drop out of society. At least they get nice views.
And a pleasant vista is something Margate certainly enjoys. J W Turner loved to paint here, the light from the north being prized by artists. In testament to him, the Turner Contemporary sits at the entrance to the harbour wall adjacent to the beach and attracts many visitors to the town to view its cycle of high profile, and more exclusive side exhibitions.
The Turner Contemporary may be the best known, but it’s far from the only art gallery in Margate. The town is truly a hub for artists, one of its most famous being Tracey Emin, who grew up in the town. This abundance of creativity is probably one of the reasons for its offbeat atmosphere. Even the hotel we stayed in, the Walpole Bay, is a living museum and gallery displaying art on napkins – a “napery,” if you will – by former guests including Tracey Emin.
You never know what to expect in Margate. Recently, the Rhodes Gallery, owned and run by Jessica Rhodes Robb & her partner, Gavin Blake, featured an exhibition dedicated to Hollywood star Pedro Pascal (star of The Last of Us). The last thing they expected was for Mr Pascal himself to turn up to see the 17 paintings of himself by artist Heidi Gentle Burrell. Unfortunately, it was a Sunday and the gallery was closed! Such are the breaks.
Throughout Margate’s Old Town there are galleries to visit including the Pie Factory and Eclectic Art Gallery. Cliftonville is an area where the huge old Victorian buildings are a pleasure to view in themselves (including the afore-mentioned Walpole Bay Hotel). On the way, you can find more galleries including Joseph Wales Gallery, the Carl Freedman Gallery and Tracey Emin’s own TKE Studios.
Although recommended, you don’t even have to step inside anywhere to see some incredible art pieces. As you walk around, you’re bound to come across some huge murals painted on the sides of buildings. There are 17 of them in total stemming from “Rise Up Residency,” an event that took place in September 2022 when 17 artists, both local and international, created them to raise awareness of ocean conservation and plastic waste in our seas. You can download a map and plan a walking route to view them, each one is worth seeing.
From Cliftonville or the Old Town it’s an easy stroll downhill to Margate’s mysterious Shell Grotto. What’s a Shell Grotto? It’s a grotto full of shells, of course! What else? OK, I appreciate it’s not your everyday attraction, but Margate’s not your everyday town.
The Shell Grotto is an underground attraction consisting of tunnels stretching to 70ft in total, with the walls of said tunnels being covered in almost 5 milllion shells. And they’re not just slapped on the walls, either. They’re arranged in intricate patterns, some of which would seem to have meaningful symbols. There’s even an altar!
Since its discovery, by accident, in 1835, debate has raged about its purpose. It’s all speculative, of course, as nobody really knows. In fact, nobody’s even really sure of precisely how old it is. Clearly it predates its discovery by some time. The Grotto has welcomed paying guests since 1838 with funds going to preserve this unique masterpiece. When you visit Margate, it’s a must-see. Make sure you visit the shop when you’re done as they have some beautiful merchandise. Stock up with special gifts or treat yourself to a classy souvenir.
Similar in nature, and also great to cool off on a hot day, are the Margate Caves. The caves began life in the 18th Century as a chalk mine before becoming a tourist attraction that benefitted from National Lottery funding to aid in restoration and build a super entrance building housing a shop and café.
Children will love the caves. They’re a lot of fun, echoey with old but still colourful murals, some tucked away for them to discover. In addition, there’s an abundance of history to be uncovered from information about the ancient coastline, though Margate’s chalk mining days in the 1700s and the prodigy of the caves and house above. Their imaginations will be fired by tales of smugglers that seem to fit with the caves, whether factual or not. My favourite part of the caves’ history is the discovery of iron age paraphernalia beneath them including a complete Iron Age skeleton.
There’s a great program of events held above and within the caves including quizzes, shopping fairs, plays, murder mystery nights and school holiday happenings. This is all thanks to The Margate Caves Community Education Trust, the registered charity that now runs the caves. Clearly, its members work hard to ensure this historic attraction has a wide and lasting appeal.
For lunch I’d suggest Peter’s Fish Factory. There’s usually a queue outside – a great sign. Ever since tasting the best pizza I’ve ever had at a cafe in Rome where the locals were lined up waiting for a table, I’ve believed in listening to what those queues are telling me. Sadly, we didn’t have time to join the queue for Peter’s on our recent visit. Nor would we have had room for the large portions they serve, but if you believe no trip to a British seaside town is complete without fish & chips, head for Peter’s. You can take your food and park yourself on one of the outdoor tables opposite the shop to people-watch or, in early evening revel in the terrific sunset, while you enjoy what reviewers on Tripadvisor claim are the “Best fish and chips I’ve probably ever had.” Not only that, but you’ll get considerable change out of a £10 note, which is more than I can say for our local chippie!
If fish & chips are integral to a seaside visit, the same can be said of ice cream and amusements, and you’ll find plenty of both across the road from Margate’s beautiful beach. When the tide’s out, the beach offers a huge expanse of golden sand. This is a beach as it should be, a huge improvement on the pebbles underfoot on the south coast. If you forget your bucket and spade, never fear, you’ll find appropriate supplies in the shops beside the amusement arcades. If you prefer your socks sand-free, there’s a well-built set of tiered steps you can stretch out on.
The beach is sheltered by the harbour wall and it’s a lovely stroll to the end, stopping at some of the galleries, until you reach the lighthouse. By that time, you’ll be ready for some refreshments so stop at a café or bar along the way. When you reach the Shell Lady statue, go no further or you’ll get very wet, and take in the view of Margate from a different angle.
One building that stands out and is visible for miles around is Arlington House, an 18-storey, classic 1960s concrete block of flats. Some consider it an eye-sore, others a piece of history. It’s Margate Marmite, for sure, but it’s also a major feature in Margate’s skyline. Personally, I find it quite fascinating due to its innovative wave design. Every single unit has both a sea view and an inland view. One famous ex-resident was Robert Calvert, one-time Hawkwind vocalist. It’s claimed the song “High Rise” on their 1979 album PXR5 was inspired by the building. So I guess that identifies it as an inspirational structure!
Looking over the other side of the harbour wall might offer you a glimpse of some cormorants swimming or drying their wings and you can follow this walk through the Turner Contemporary car park along the back of various buildings to enjoy the clear sea view and hear the soothing sound of the ebb lapping against the wall.
For some totally different sounds, let me turn to another piece of real estate with a rich history that’s absolutely synonymous with Margate. That place is Dreamland and I’ll tell you all about it, and more, in Part 2 of this article which will be published on Friday.
Bookmark this page and I’ll see you back here then.
https://www.riseupresidency.co.uk
https://www.margatecaves.co.uk
https://www.arlingtonhousemargate.co.uk
https://www.walpolebayhotel.co.uk
Ah, Ramsgate, where 55 years ago I spent a short holiday with my then wife. Ramsgate was more memorable than the marriage, culture in short supply then, so thanks to this article I suppose I will have to return with the current wife. Different hotel of course now and then, some great ideas here.